Tag Archives: Serge Lutens

Perfume Consultant

That would be me. 🙂

Honestly, I am a bit proud now. Yesterday I managed to find two matches for someone. I’m especially happy because it was for a friend’s daughter who is 12 (going on 70) and all I had to go on was something neutral, that she can wear to school and that won’t bother her nose like all other perfumes she smells all the time.

The really helpful part is I know her since the day she was born so I could add some more ideas about what might suit her. I’ll tell you what I chose for her to try and what she finally selected (which were also the ones I thought she might latch onto).

As I was selecting perfumes from my collection for her to try and for me to get an idea what she might like (because neutral can be so many things), I realized I don’t really do neutral, no sillage, nobody knows I’m wearing perfume stuff. 😀

Still, I managed to locate some things that could fit the bill.

This is what I took for her to try:

Eau de Cartier – because it really is unisex, although not really very quiet

Puredistance Antonia – I sort of sneaked that one in not expecting her to like it for herself, but to give her an idea of quiet elegance

Different Company – Un parfum de Sens et Bois – a completely forgotten sample I accidentally found and loved for her

Serge Lutens Bas de Soie – I always think of iris as being the soft, quiet flower

Rue Rance Eau Sublime – a forgotten bottle I only recently realized I enjoy immensely

Any Tauer Penta Verdant green=neutral? sort of, but more to see whether she would associate the two

Romea d’Ameor The Great Inca Priestess – one I really like and only had a sample of (have no idea why they don’t have a webpage?)

I wonder what you think would be her choice(s) among these?

She loved both Sens et Bois and the Incan Priestess. Which are honestly so very easy to love and smell perfect on her.

Then we went in search of where they can be bought. It turns out they are not so easily obtainable in Croatia. But it also got me thinking how the proliferation of perfume brands and perfumes had two really bad impacts (at least in my case).

  1. I lost all will to try and follow what’s happening in the perfume world because who can keep track anymore
  2. But while I was still trying to keep track, I ignored the beautiful perfumes I already had at home, which are really pieces of art how well they are done, and it doesn’t seem they are given the praise and love they deserve (this is just my opinion, maybe I’m completely wrong)

Then again, I always thought that The Different Company wasn’t given the love it deserves. Now I think the same for the Inca Priestess.

Merry Christmas!

To all my readers – people who still think this blog might be brought to life and haven’t lost faith –  and to those who think otherwise (whom I hope to prove wrong 😉 ) – I wish you all the most fulfilling Christmas – may it bring you the true happiness and contentment we all deserve to feel in our lives.

This is one my trees this year – the other one is on the wall but somehow isn’t photogenic (I really tried taking a good photo but failed).

 

edf

 

P.S. I’ve been trying to re-ignite my love for perfume and the farthest I got so far is enjoying immensely the original Feminite du Bois.

God, that perfume is so good!

And it makes me remember the initial enthusiasm I had.

Woohoo!! It’s amber time!

And vanilla and oud. 🙂 But amber is the note that first comes to mind  when it’s cold outside.

That said, this morning I wanted to celebrate this wonderful sunny and wGolden amber close up backlit shows crystalshite day (the snow is still unmelted) with Ambre Sultan, only to not be able to find my decant. So I decided to put Ambre Precieux on. I’m very happy with that choice. If I smell a waft from afar (and not on my turtleneck), I catch what I would call a flowery hint. It’s basically wonderful.

And amber fits perfectly with this cold weather, it just makes you feel warm all over by smelling it.

My other ambery choices will include MdO Ambre, Ambra Nobile by Nobile 1942 and Le Labo Labdanum 18.

With a special mention of Caravelle Epicee, which I don’t actually count among ambers but theoretically it is, so it goes on the list. I mean, there are so many other things going on in there that saying it’s an amber perfume doesn’t do it justice.

I still find that to be one of the best winter perfumes ever. At least for me. It hits all my spicy, warm, gourmand-y buttons. Plus, it smells really sexy.

P.S. That was my first ever perfume review. 🙂

 

My top 5 perfume houses

Well, Birgit beat me to it. 😦 Even so, I’ll go with the one I had planned several weeks ago and never published (now wonder people beat me to different things). 😉

So, as there are posts like these all the time (your favorite perfumes, notes, brands, perfumes from a brand, etc.), I wanted to share my preferences on the subject.

I have a hard time naming favorite perfumes as that changes all the time. Plus, there are so many good perfumes out there, I hate having to choose among them. I have enough love for all of them. 😉DSC00761

That is why I decided to tell you about my favorite perfume houses because even though I don’t like everything they do, I like/love most of their perfumes and look benevolently on others even when I don’t like them. They are also better represented in my collection. 🙂

In no particular order:

Serge Lutens – I’m guessing most perfumistas have Serge Lutens on their list of perfume houses they enjoy. I don’t think a special explanation is needed but to explain my reasoning – they are like a wonderfully intelligent conversation you might lead at the most unexpected places but one you really need to be alert for, otherwise you will lose your strain of thought.

Guerlain – again, some of the ingeniously great perfumes came from this house and they still come up with some great perfumes.

Ramon Monegal – now, I only recently discovered this gem of a perfume house and the more I smell their perfumes, the more I fall in love. Which isn’t surprising considering Mr. Monegal’s love for books which in my mind only means he knows what he’s doing when it comes to perfume as well. And the inkwell! I was sold at that. 😉

Histoires des Parfums – I always think they don’t get enough love and raving reviews because honestly, those perfumes are great, and very wearable. And not expensive either (considering what else is out there and how much it costs).

The last but not the least, the house that started my perfume journey – L’Artisan Parfumeur. They are also the house I would recommend every perfume newbie to start with as they make you fall in love with some amazingly down-to-earth notes.

 

I noticed in this list that my European heritage is rather obvious. 🙂

And of course I have special additions. 😉

Special mention goes to Dawn Spencer Hurwitz (being both an American perfume house and indie as well) whose perfumes I keep enjoying since the first time I smelled them. I’m amazed at the work Dawn does, both in its expanse and quality and look forward to smelling many more perfumes her artisan hands make.

And Frederic Malle which would have made the list if I were to mention 6 perfume houses. They’ve been steadily climbing my list of favorite houses for some time now…

P.S. Special thanks to Asali for the absolutely wonderful photos I could use for this post and my blog header.

The Scent of Music: Winter Wonderland

It’s that time of year when we all want to write about our Christmas scents. A big thank you to Undina and Natalie for bringing us all together for another fragrant blogging event.

Today we are pairing Christmas music and perfumes and I just have to say it’s the best idea as I love Christmas music and well, you all know I love perfume.

My choice of music was Dean Martin‘s Winter Wonderland – the idea of winter wonderland paired with his voice makes for a perfect song to indulge in during this time (at least for me it does).

“Sleigh bells ring, are you listening,
In the lane, snow is glistening
A beautiful sight,Winter_WonderlandWe’re happy tonight.
Walking in a winter wonderland. ..

…Later on, we’ll conspire,

As we dream by the fire

To face unafraid,

The plans that we’ve made,
Walking in a winter wonderland. …

When it snows, ain’t it thrilling,
Though your nose gets a chilling
We’ll frolic and play, the Eskimo way,
Walking in a winter wonderland.”

 

I skipped parts of the song and just focused on those I will feature in perfumes. That said, I’m still looking for a perfume embodiment of snow I have in my mind.

Each time I consider a winter wonderland, I think of white woods and walking through them in the snow. I guess all the skiing did its thing. 😉

So, my perfect perfumes embodying the smell of a walk in the winter woods would be Serge Lutens Fille en Aiguilles, making you feel you’re still close to the cabin and its fire while also smelling the pines around you, and Winter Woods by Sonoma Scent Studio which is such an incredible depiction in perfume of exactly what the name says.

Then there are perfumes that might not smell like snow exactly, but they smell white and cold and sparkly, and come very close.

I find it funny that I would list Byredo’s Bal d’Afrique among them but I do. It smells white to me and light and when I smell it, I feel the same as I would when I breathe in the snowy air.

Then there is Le Labo’s Gaiac 10 , with its incense and cedar and it makes me think white and clean, and therefore snowy. It’s strange that when a perfume has an incense note that smells white, I am fine with it (otherwise it’s a no-no for me on incense).

My third choice for the tranquility of the white world (winterland) is Montale’s  White Oud. It’s as serene and peaceful as a white, snowy landscape where you are alone to find peace.

And as we go back to warm ourselves by the fire, I always go back to Piment et Chocolat, a perfume to warm you up that you wouldn’t mind drinking by the fire either, and Festive, the one you might want to wear if you need warming up of another kind by the Christmas tree. 😉

Please visit my fellow participating bloggers for their choices on what songs smell Christmas-y to them:

I’ll leave you now with Winter Wonderland. 🙂

And my favorite for this year and one of my all time favorite Christmas songs of all time:

Croatia is in the EU

flagI admit, I could be counted among the Euro-sceptics (although I’ve been told that’s actually fashionable and trendy these days) but ever since Croatians voted for entering the EU, I can’t help but think of the bright side of the situation.

I can freely order from all the sites that delivered only to EU!!! 😀 Top of my list being Serge Lutens of course.

I don’t expect it to become available today but hopefully in the near future, Croatia will be added to the list of EU countries many sites ship to.

I was happy to notice that Paula Begoun International site welcomed Croatia  to their shipping world today. 🙂

In anticipation of new fragrant (and other) delights, to all my fellow Europeans – a warm hello from a new member!

 

Tuberose term, starting… Now!

TuberoseActually, it started this morning but still, today is the day.

Our spring weather has finally decided to stop channeling autumn and we are finally heading for summer warmth and that means TUBEROSE. 🙂

I am very happy that the weather has consented to allow me to happily wear my lovely white flowers and I started this day with Vamp a NY.

That was a very good choice.

Other tuberose choices I will be dealing with in days to come include: MdO Tubereuse, Guerlain Mahora, Noix de Tubereuse by Miller Harris, the HdP Tuberose trio (Virginale, Capricieuse and Animale), L’Artisan’s Nuit de Tubereuse, Le Labo’s Tuberose, Estee Lauder Tuberose Gardenia and possibly Fracas(and I’m including here Songes, Une Voix Noire, Wildwood flower by H&M and Cruel Gardenia as they fit with my ideal).

For special evenings, I will be choosing between my samples of Carnal Flower and Tubereuse Criminelle.

If you have any suggestions what other tuberoses should get into the rotation, I’m waiting eagerly to hear them.

I’m also always open to receiving some.

You know, like the Bolt of Lightning… 😉

Impatience isn’t a virtue but it might be a teacher

Many people around me think my greatest fault is that I’m stubborn. But if I were to say what my greatest fault is, I’d say impatience, closely followed by pride (which can easily be misconstrued as stubbornness).

If you are wondering why am I talking about my faults instead of perfume (or books) it is precisely my impatience what I believe is not letting me enjoy perfumes as I should.

It all came to me when I decided to put on Santal Majuscule the other day (after having reviewed it when it came out), only to realize in my mind, it’s not really a winter perfume (it’s how I thought of it)

Impatient for this littel gem

Impatient for this little gem

but more of a cold spring perfume – perfect for the time we are having now (it would probably work in autumn too).

I cannot describe how perfectly it felt these few days I’ve been wearing it. Which is something my impatience didn’t make me realize at the time I decided to review it.

And the fact that I look at my VAST collection of samples with what now seems dread is not helping my impatience.

So many times now I said I would start writing short reviews of samples, one each day, and that was my impatience to go through those samples at its best. I hate the fact that I am not familiar with them and they just lie there pretty much forgotten.

The truth is, perfumes don’t approve of impatience. You can try and force your way through the growing perfumes you have/want to try, but then it stops being pleasure. And if it’s a chore, you slowly stop doing it when you feel you can get away from doing it.

That is what wearing Santal Majuscule showed me. I liked it a lot when I reviewed it but it wasn’t a perfect fit at that time. Now it is.

There are several perfumes at the moment I am impatient to write about, but they won’t let me. They know I like them and now they are waiting for us to get to know each other without hurry, just for pleasure. Otherwise they won’t let me write (the words aren’t coming).

And they are right. Because if I don’t let go, I won’t enjoy myself.

Words will come later.

Santal Majuscule (and a minuscule draw)

There is a reason why I don’t review Serge Lutens perfumes often even though I wear many and like many of them (wouldn’t mind owning practically the whole line).
I just never seem to be able to find the words to describe exactly what I smell – that happens with other perfumes as well, but nowhere am I so strongly aware of it as with SL perfumes.

So, I’ll try and do my best ut in the end, as is always the case with Uncle Serge perfumes, the reviews won’t really prepare you for what you smell in the end. 🙂 (I find that a great thing myself)

Notes: sandalwood, cocoa, Arabian attar rose, honey, spices

I’ve sampled and worn Santal Majuscule many times over the weeks I have it and still, each time I smell it, I find another facet of it to be revealed. I went through so many ideas of what this perfume smells like and each time I smell it again, half of the stuff I thought it smelled like aren’t there but there are new things I smell.

Until I saw the notes, cocoa and rose never entered my mind  but once I saw them, I knew they were in there, I even remembered exactly at what point the cocoa comes to play.

Before I start describing what it smells like to  me, I should say that the most obvious thing I get from it is that it is a combination of perfumes that already exist in the line. I don’t mean to say by that that I think it’s not good or smelling differently, it’s just that there are familiar accords jumping out at you at different times.

Sometimes it’s the idea of sweet, sticky, spiced (and even boozy) fruit of what I’d like to think as Arabian market variety the first thing you smell, soon to be followed by the teasing wafts of how Jeux de Peau starts, following with opening of Santal Blanc until sometimes you come across barest hints of Ambre Sultan hidden in the murky depths of this perfume.
Because there ARE depths to it, you can smell them from the start. But try as you might, sniffing at close proximity won’t get you anywhere near those depths.

So, what I smell in the beginning is described in the previous paragraph, warm, spicy, boozy fruit with the general feeling of seriousness and darkness (there’s not frivolity to this fruit as the feeling is dry and not sparkling and happy) with cocoa underscoring the darkness and warmth and sandalwood making you swoon.
Now I know it’s there, I can smell the rose appear and the fruitiness slowly disappear. At this point is where I feel a smile blossoming on my face. It is also where I feel the resemblance to Santal Blanc is most prominent.

Being true to my smelling practices, after enjoying this phase for quite a while, all I can say about the drydown, is, it continues to dry in the vein it smells.

Honestly, I don’t know if you noticed, but I’m really not a drydown person.  My attention dissipates by that time.

So, for the minuscule draw I have two samples from my bottle, tell me why you think you might like/love this or why not? Both will work. 🙂

Being careful around SL perfumes

It hit me this morning when applying Rousse.

It’s not only Fleurs d’Oranger you need to take care when you decide to apply, as Birgit  explained the other day.
Many Serge Lutens perfumes are mischievous, not exactly beasts, but creatures they could be. Everything is working fine until one day you put the perfume on, and it smells off. I’m pretty sure this has happened to many of you but the only perfume house which perfumes do this to me is Serge Lutens.

I will have to employ some investigative methods  to discover why exactly does that happen but I think I know.

*psssst*

I believe they know when you are applying them without being sure it’s the right perfume for that day as you’re thinking, today this might work.
They know…

That is what happened to me today.
And that has also happened with Fleurs d’Oranger, and Cedre, once with Serge Noire, Fille en Aiguilles and Boxeuses (I’m pretty sure it will happen with some others I decide to wear without being sure it’s their perfectly right time).

I tell you – they know your heart wasn’t in it when you sprayed it. And they take revenge.

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