Some of my thoughts for the freshly anointed (a.k.a budding perfumistas)

There’s been a lot of posts written about advice for budding perfumistas, so this is not advice, these are the things I learned in the process of becoming one. 🙂

1. Once you start calling yourself a perfumista (perfume lover, perfume geek, however you want to call yourself), IT’S FOR LIFE. There is just no way you are going to go back to that time in the past when your nose could distinguish only the most common things. And dismiss them in the next instant.

2. However do you start, ordering an army of samples and getting lost in their perfumed sillage or taking time with one by one, it will still take a couple of years of constant smelling for your nose to learn enough so you can finally smell and name the nuances.

Take your time, the journey is lovely and fragrant.
3. After learning this works for me, I actually read it on one of the perfume blogs as proven fact. Nowadays, when I smell anything, I breathe in several quick breaths instead of one long one. Pretty much like a dog sniffing out something. 🙂 Works much better.

4. Once the fragrant world opens its doors and lets you in, you will be joyfully smelling everything in your path as you probably won’t be familiar with the smell of so many things you live surrounded with. And you will start cataloguing them in your mind.

5. Your sense of smell will improve and you’ll be able to detect whiffs of things people around you won’t be able to smell.

6. Don’t got for naturals if you haven’t had previous experience with essential oils and are unfamiliar with the way they smell. Naturals are a perfume category for itself.

7. Pretty much the same goes for vintage. It takes time to understand and like perfumes from days past. But you will. 🙂

8. The perfume community is full of the most lovely people you are ever going to virtually meet (and some of them you might actually meet in real life). Finding beauty in such an ethereal thing like perfume is not something many people actually appreciate and my thoughts run in the vein of perfume people being positive and optimistic to find and actively search for beauty in those little wispy whiffs.

9. Frustration with mainstream will abound. But sometimes, a gem will be found among those shelves of synthetic fruity-florals (or whatever the current vogue).

10. At one point, you will be sure samples procreate and have children of their own. Beacuse they will take over every free space you have (and those that aren’t free, too).

11. Don’t worry if at one point you lose all enthusiasm for smelling and you feel you’ll never get it back. It happens. It also never lasts long. 🙂

12. Thanks to Undina who reminded me – NEVER SAY NEVER. 🙂 You might think you don’t like a perfume family or a single note, but it’s just a question of discovering the right perfume that will open the door into the previously forbidden smelly teritorry (you just wait and see). 🙂

P.S. I plan on updating the list when something new occurs to me.

Stephanie Laurens: The Reasons for Marriage

One good thing that comes from my Kindle (well, there are many but this one is the important one for this post) is that I browse and get recommended some long lost titles. 🙂

I’ve been a fan of Stephanie Laurens for a long, long time but not as far as 1995. (if I remember correctly  the year this was published).
And there are definitely some noticeable differences between this romance novel and the ones that came later. And the main character being a rake isn’t one of them. 🙂

I’d say she drew on Pride and Prejudice when starting this novel. The main character, being a duke, is very, ha, can’t say egotistic because he is not intentionally mean, but being an extremely handsome and intelligent man (and a duke!) he can do and get pretty much anything he wants and love is not a word he recognizes as part of his vocabulary.
Honestly, he comes off so high-handedly aloof that I wondered how was SL going to show us he can fall in love. Because that’s what all good rakes do. First they gather enough sexual experience to last them a dozen lifetimes and then they fall in love with intelligent beauties and are forever their loving husbands.

In the meantime, you get a lot of easy, fun banter and steamy sex scenes.

Only, this time around, there are no steamy sex scenes in this novel. And that is the main difference between this novel and later works by Stephanie Laurens.
Not that I find the book lacking because of it, quite the contrary, it made me tear up due to emotion (which doesn’t happen when steamy scenes are involved for some reason). 🙂

P.S. One of the families visiting is called Darcys. 😀

Filching a birthday present

As all of you who read Birgit’s blog Olfactoria’s Travels know, she did mini reviews yesterday of DSH perfumes in honour of Dawn’s birthday today.
I think it is a lovely idea so I thought I’d give my thoughts on the latest trio I tried of Dawn’s creations.
And a very happy birthday Dawn! 🙂

Minuit
Top notes: Cassis Bud, Hazelnut, Silver Fir

Middle notes: Carnation, Centifolia Rose Absolute, Jasmine, Tuberose Absolute
Base notes: Brown Oakmoss, Olibanum (Frankincense), Oude (Agarwood)

I’d swear there was some patchouli in this as it starts sweet, lightly earthy-rooty so it instantly reminded me of patchouli. Also, I just realized, that the earthy-rooty thing might not sound appealing in terms of perfume but to me, it always smells great. I was already starting to get worried I might be imagining things as I smelled carnation (and I tested Vitriol d’Oiellet morning before) but carnation is in there. And I can smell the wonderful oakmoss base. And to imagine I used to think I didn’t like oakmoss (that’s until you smell the real deal).
Basically, to me it smells darkishly woody and lightly floral, and then it gets more rosy-woody until woodsy notes are all I can smell and it makes me feel calm and relaxed and while I’m not watching, the woods give way to florals and I’m floating on a cloud.
 
 
Oude Arabique
Top notes: Mastic

Middle notes: Oude (Agarwood), Tamil Nadu Sandalwood

Base notes: Australian Sandalwood, Buddahwood, Himalayan Cedar, Tolu Balsam

Of this trio, Oude is my favourite but it doesn’t smell really oudish to me. It starts sweetly, floral-sandalwoody and then I get this wonderfull creaminess that is very reminiscent of Love Coco but there is no coconut or ylang-ylang in this. The best I could come up with was that mastic and sandalwood were playing tricks on me because later I could smell sandalwood more clearly.
As I follow my nose and notes are there to point the way most of the time, I ended up with something floral in the base (again). 🙂 Not that I mind.
 
 
L’Eau d’Iris
Top notes: Bergamot, Florentine Iris Flower, Violet

Middle notes: Neroli, Orris Root
Base notes: Benzoin, Musk, Sandalwood

I really thought this wasn’t my kind of perfume until the initial iris bitterness was mellowed  by violet. And if I read that somewhere else, I wouldn’t have been interested as I’m not really a violet fan, but lately it seems to be getting under my skin.
The initial iris smells very strict and uncompromising to me until it gets mellowed by the violet and then later musc (reminding me a bit of MdO Musc where the pair works wonderfully). I really tried smelling the bergamot but it’s more of a backdrop to the iris’s center stage.
Does that happen to anyone else? I mean, I can’t smell a note but I know it’s there because of the way the most obvious note smells like.
So, iris loses its strength slowly and while making way for violet, in the end it makes it into sandalwoody muskiness. Extremely lovely. Especially when considering where it started from.

Notes and pics by: http://www.dshperfumes.com/

De Profundis

By Asali

I can’t remember anticipating a Serge Lutens release as much as this for a long while. The name of De Profundis had captured my imagination well before the beautiful bell jar with the purple juice arrived in its black box. Describing De Profundis, M. Lutens once again reached Sfinxish heights, referencing certain periods of French and English literature and its flirtatious fascination with death.

I find it is a fragrance full of quiet surprises on every corner you turn with it, from the very first green notes of the funeral march, to the last sweet whispers from beyond. Much has been written about the resemblance to funeral wreaths, church yards and mourning veils, but to me it’s not gothic and dark, if any connection to these, it’s more like a remembrance, a peaceful celebration, a sanctuary. But having said that, I don’t feel that the fragrance has limitations as such, I could certainly wear it often. Perhaps because it’s a quiet, all be it persistent, Serge. De Profundis Clamavi might translate as I shouted from the depths, but there is never any shouting from De Profundis EdP.

I like the opening of the green yet friendly, chrysanthemums followed by the cool violet and rest of the bouquet, which together with the aldehydes are all together more extrovert and less melancholic than I would have expected. The flowers have a bit of own spiciness and it feels like some musk works its way into the bouquet as the violet softly withers from the perfume. I get the decided feeling that the fragrance itself yearns and beseeches you to think of the violet, once gone, like an echo. There is incense but I find it only detectable as a feeling of calm and quiet, it isn’t a dominant note, and yet it almost feels like it is a main player of the fragrance because of the serenity it emits. Is it perhaps some chamomile which reinforces that sensation of peacefulness as the perfume slowly descends into the base? This is richer than one would have expected of the opening and the aldehydic flowers, yes, it turns out to surprise by its Lutenesque familiarity. Like a last caress, it whispers of spices and warmth.

I imagined many different poems and poets, before receiving De Profundis, but the one I’d like to share with you that I find to be the closest poetic soundtrack is by Rainer Maria Rilke and called Traumgekrönt.

Traumgekrönt

Das war der Tag der weißen Chrysanthemen,
Mir bangte fast vor seiner Pracht…
Und dann, dann kamst du mir die Seele nehmen
Tief in der Nacht.

Mir war so bang, und du kamst lieb und leise,
Ich hatte grad im Traum an dich gedacht.
Du kamst, und leis’ wie eine Märchenweise
Erklang die Nacht.

Crowned with dreams
That was the day of the white chrysanthemums,
Its splendor almost frightened me,
And then, then you came to take my soul
At the dead of night.

I was so frightened, and you came sweetly and gently
I had been thinking of you in my dreams.
You came, and soft as a fairy tune
The night resounded.

One of my loves for life – pilates

I’m at a sort of crossroads when it comes to my training routine.
For some 7-8 years I’ve been going to my local gym for pilates and occasional workout class but always pilates.
And it took me some time to achieve what I thought was a balance, I wasn’t as pilates-fit as our trainer but I felt good changes in my body and actually grew a whole centimeter. 🙂

But for years now, I feel like I’m only maintaining the level I achieved and I can’t seem to cross it. Then it dawned on me.
We are a large group there (at least 20, usually more) and our trainer only instructs us, she doesn’t go around improving our posture and setting us straight in positions we are supposed to achieve.
And I want to improve – I can feel my spine losing its mobility just for the 3 months I’ve been away from it.

So, I’ve decided since I love doing pilates, to go to a real pilates studio and exercise in a small group of 5 where the trainer is always there to make you do the exercise right (and basically torture you). 🙂

There were 2 studios that  I decided to try and now I’m having a problem. I mean I decided to go to the second one, where they do straight Pilates pilates and not STOTT pilates which seemed interesting to me when I went for a class there.

One of the things I love about both pilates studios I’ve been to, is that the atmosphere is completely different than from the gym. They are more oriented to the individual and it feels more welcome and you feel like someone is actually paying attention to what you do.
Of course, this is going to cost me twice as much as my usual gym card did, but I’m willing to try and see if it works (and from the 2 classes I’ve been to, I can’t see how it won’t).

Hmmm, if you were wondering how did I get to explaining my pilates studio choices from pilates being the love of my life, well it’s easy.
I love it so much and I saw that what I did wasn’t getting me anywhere, so I decided to change my routine pattern that was a normal part of my life, and go for something new and more demanding.
I am ready to face my new pilates life. Beacuse I love it so much.

And I hope after a few months of training in a little group and learning better pilates postures, I will go for an instructor course.

Beacuse this love of my life brings more fullness to my life the more I invest myself in it. Isn’t that what true love is about?

Pic by: http://www.stottpilates.com/

Short foray into mainstream

It’s not often I visit Sephora as it’s not close to my usual places but today, I was at the exact spot and had 10 minutes. 🙂
So, of course I took the chance and went in search of a spray of Chanel 19 Poudre.

Basically, I won’t go searching for it again. I am very disappointed. Not that it’s bad for the general, youthful I’d say, public, but it holds no candle to the original. It feels exactly like what Guerlain did with Shalimar, only their flanker is much more wearable to a lover of Shalimar than Poudre is to a lover of Chanel 19.

Not to mention the fact that after 10 minutes, I could no longer smell it on my arm. Poof! It was gone.
Notes I could find: neroli, galbanum, jasmine, iris, white musk, vetiver and tonka bean.

I also got to finally smell Jimmy Choo (which for some reason I keep calling in my mind Jimmy Chang, have no idea why…).
I thought it was perfectly nice and acceptable and would probably make a good gift if you have no idea what the woman in question loves (and she isn’t a hardcore perfumista). I’ll give it some skin time next time around.
Heart notes: Tiger Orchard

Top notes: Pear Nectar, Sweet Italian Orange
Base notes:Toffee, Indonesian Patchouli

The surprise of the evening was Bulgari Jasmin Noir. The only problem is I tested it on paper and Bulgaris usually fail in contact with my skin. What appears on paper is nowhere close to what appears on me. So, I’ll give this another go on skin. 
At first, I couldn’t detect any jasmine, but then it slowly appeared and being upset with Poudre’s disappearance, I forgot to follow but I will definitely give it another go. The idea I got wasn’t noir though. 🙂

Notes: green plants juice, gardenia flowers, Sambac jasmine absolute, sateen almond aromas, dark notes of precious wood, liquorice absolute and accords of Tonka.

The last try for the evening was Kenzo’s Flower Tag. And with it, my enthusiasm for discovering more mainstream evaporated. Yep, a fruity floral. A sweet fruity-floral.

Top notes: mandarin, black currant, rhubarb

Heart: peony, jasmine, lily of the valley
Base: tea, musk, vanilla

Your nightmare fragrance? Inquiring minds want to know…

My collaborator Asali came with a very good question today, one I haven’t yet seen posed anywhere and I like the challenge of answering it. 🙂

So, the question is, what would be the notes of your nightmare fragrance?

Here is Asali’s nightmare fragrance:

Top: Aquatic/ ozone/ tequila (or the wodka note of Ambre Russe!)

Heart: lychee, watermelon, Lily (the indolic-cats-piss-one) and an overdosed Tuberose (like the IPdF)
Base: OUD, and the synthetic white musk. Somewhere in there you can throw some dill and star anise, and I’ll be sure to get ill from sniffing it.

I’m almost with her on the notes of her nightmare fragrance, but I adore Ambre Russe (and have to re-smell it now because I’ve missed the wodka part). 🙂

Here is mine:

Top: aquatic note, synthetic fruit (berries and peaches usually),
Heart: watermelon, cheap almond note, milk
Base: Synthetic white musk

I shudder just thinking about it.

So, let’s hear it – we look forward to the possibilities out there. 🙂

P.S. I reserve the right to add a note or two to my original thoughts.

Tess Gerritsen: The Silent Girl

I thought it was only perfumes, but it seems to now apply to books I read as well. I want to talk about them and my mind is full of ideas, but when it comes to writing them down, nothing smart comes out.  Well, nothing even remotely close to what is in my head at least.

I really should learn how to turn my thoughts into better stories. I’m sure there are workshops that can teach you that (I mean, nowadays there are workshops for practically anything).

So, this is the latest in the Isles & Rizzoli series. Btw, both Rizzoli and Isles from the TV series weren’t even close to what I imagined them in my mind, but I can work with Rizzoli actress. I like the way she looks and portraits Rizzoli. The Isles actress is not as strong and cool as the real Maura Isles from the books (at least from my perspective).

One thing I realized about Tess Gerritsen’s writing when it comes to this series is, that lately (I don’t remember that was happening in the beginning), there seem to be mythical/fantastic parts of the story creeping in but I know that in the end all that will have a realistic explanation. And it always does.
The best thing about it though, is that I can’t guess the explanation. 🙂 Or, who did it. Or, when it seems all clear, something new gets added. Absolutely thrilling!
And I do mean that. I’ve read enough crime stories and thrillers that when I watch TV,  I know who is the killer just watching the movie/series for 5 minutes.
So a book where I think I know, only to be proven wrong, and then I seem to be right but for all the wrong reasons, and I completely miss one of the biggest mysteries that gets explained in the end, well, I think those are the traits of a truly great storyteller. 🙂

And as you might have learned by now, I’m not going to go into describing the story. I’ll just say that from my perspective, the Silent girl from the title, is the one I forgot about keeping track but who kept the story together and was silent for decades.

P.S. Please, don’t start reading the series from this book, start at the beginning.

P.P.S I spend so much money on books, I do wish someone somewhere would feel sorry for me and send some over (of the kind I usually read). 🙂
Was that very selfish to wish for?

I smell nice

That’s what I kept thinking yesterday evening while on a drive to our evening destination. 🙂

I was wearing Vamp a NY, which always works for me, and catching whiffs of it around me, kept bringing a smile to my face until I realized, I smell nice.

Ok, so that might sound redundant, I mean, I usually wear perfumes I like, so of course I’d smell nice to myself but it just never hit me that I enjoy the way I smell.

I enjoy catching whiffs of my perfume of the moment.

I smell nice to myself. 😀

Olympic Orchids, part I

As I announced the other day, I want to finally put to words my thoughts on some of the less known perfumes out there made by people who obviously have a perfume vision unique to themselves.

One of those people is Ellen Covey aka Doc Elly of Olympic Orchids.

I’m ashamed to say that I’ve been sitting on the samples she sent for months now, not even getting around to smelling all of them, but now my vacation is over, and I feel I should be rested even though the heat here won’t let me feel rested, I can finally start reviewing perfumes that I ought long time ago.

So, I’ll go through them in batches, which means they’ll be a bit shorter and here is the first. 🙂

Olympic Amber

Notes: labdanum, vanilla, benzoin, incense, resins, patchouli, and woods

Being a fan of labdanum, you’d think I’d recognize it when featured in a perfume. 🙂
For me, this is a raspy, lightly fruity, green-spicy amber. Not sweet and actually rather serious.
And in the beginning, amber is sort of hidden under that bold opening.

Which brings me, almost Ellen’s perfumes seem bold to me. She has a signature of her own that you can recognize after smelling several of her creations and it’s like nothing I ever smelled before. Can’t say if it’s in any way connected with orchids because the only ones here don’t have any kind of smell.
Out of all the notes listes, the only one I can smell on its own is patchouli in these little, cute whiffs while the amber feel broadens.

Although as I said, this isn’t a cuddly amber. Quite an achievement if you ask me.

Carolina

Notes: longleaf pine, hay, tobacco, lavender, green grass, magnolia, kudzu flower, honeysuckle, star jasmine, and tonka

Sometimes I wonder why I even review perfumes when there seem to be a lot of notes in there that I have no idea what they smell like.
I think for me, one of the easiest ways to know if a perfume is great is when I can’t tease out the notes. Which seems to happen a lot with Olympic Orchids.

The best I could come up with for Carolina is that it’s a flowery sweet, sunny and refreshing as a spring day with barest fruity whisps in the air.

I don’t appreciate sugary sweetness in perfumes, but when the sweetness in there is from blossoming flowers, well, I’m on my knees. It’s one of the best smells in the world if you ask me. I honestly couldn’t figure out the notes I was smelling – they were combined into a perfectly lovely experience.
And here is the description Ellen wrote which seems more appropriate than my words:

“A dreamy scent of the American South that takes you from a day spent among sun-warmed longleaf pines, grassy fields, magnolias, and kudzu flowers through a warm, humid night sweetened with the scent of honeysuckle and star jasmine, always with an undercurrent of tonka-rich tobacco curing in the wooden barns and historic red brick factories.”

Gujarat

Notes: saffron, tulsi, lime, tagetes, jasmine, rose, cardamom, cumin, fenugreek, ginger, curry leaf, turmeric, mango, spikenard, olibanum, vetiver, patchouli, choya loban, black agar, and sandalwood

Gujarat is among my favorites from the line. But that one is not for the weak hearted (or cumin-phobic). Not that you get a lot of cumin, just the underlying musky warmth of it but I still need to warn people as I can tell it’s cumin, so I’m sure other people would too.
I hate it that my starting line is about cumin because that’s such a minor player in this. This is a spice fest of the most luscious kind.
As you can see from the list of notes, there is no lack of spices in there. Which again brings me to the fact that I have no idea how most of those spices smell like. I do know though that they combine into a powerfully attractive mix to me.

The perfume starts for me slightly menthol-like with warm spices (here is where I detect cumin underneath) and lightly fruity as well. It practically emits warmth from where you apply it.
Again, I can smell the floral sweetness and the idea of what I come to call Ellen’s signature.

By the time I can detect mango and oudishness, I am thouroughly glued to my wrist.
Which brings me back to the fact that I saw black agar listed here and oud listed on one other of Olympic Orchids perfume together with black agar, and I somehow thought it was the same…? Obviously, I need to learn a lot more. 🙂

Olympic Rainforest

Notes:cedar leaves, green sword ferns, rhododendron, forest mushrooms, beebalm, myrtle, oakmoss, black spruce, balsam fir, and Port Orford Cedar wood

This is my last Olympic Orchid for today.
This is the one that smells of lavender, and pine needles, of woods and fern. The whole deal.
It starts refreshingly and invigoratingly, it makes you breathe in fully and then lets you enter the underbrush of the rainforest, as it smells grassy and ferny to me (again barest fruity whisps, I seem to amplify sweetness in these perfumes).

One of the best things about perfume is that you learn a lot. I kept smelling this menthol-like freshness (many things piney smell menthol-like to me) and it turns out cedar leaves come from an evergreen, coniferous tree. And as I’ve never seen a cedar tree in my life (there aren’t any here), of course I didn’t know that.
The perfume then goes on to smell like you’ve entered the rainforest, lightly sweet fungi smell, slight dampness and rottiness of leaves and underneath all that, the smell of fern.

It gets less and less sweet until you are left with flowery cedar woods (I really don’t know where am I getting all this floweriness from).

Pics taken from http://www.fragrantica.com/