Tag Archives: Perfume review

I won’t be powdering my nose – Narciso Poudree

I’ll be powdering everything else I can. 😉

It’s funny – one day you’re lamenting how you can no longer find a perfume that will make you fall in love and then, suddenly, from the most unexpected place, one appears.

I’m not complaining though. Ok, maybe a little as it’s not yet out so I can’t get a bottle of  my own but in the overall scope of things, I can live with that. I can even live with the fact that I’ll be encountering many other people smelling like me once it’s released.

I think Narciso himself introduced this perfume in the clearest of ways:NARCISO image9.indd

“With the original NARCISO fragrance, I wanted to create an extremely sexy fragrance. NARCISO eau de parfum Poudrée captures femininity at its core in an even more seductive way. It is both tender and powerful and immediately addictive.”

I cannot but agree with everything stated here. I liked the original Narciso perfume but it is this one that is at the same time sexy as hell and feminine and not overpowering. It speaks to me like in all the ways I didn’t think a perfume can. It reminds me of younger days when I thought Very Irresistible by Givenchy was all the rage. There is a character note they share (rose) and where Very Irresistible made the air in the room unbreathable with its overbearing silage, Narciso Poudree is the wisp of air that makes you turn your head in search of the sensuality you think you noticed and want to make sure you didn’t imagine, because it smells too good to be truly there.

Yes, it’s obvious I’m in love, isn’t it? 🙂

Notes from I gathered from the press release include: jasmine, Bulgarian rose, vetiver, black cedar, white cedar, powdery musc.

Before going on to what I smell, I want to say a big thank you to Raquel Zimmerman who made me re-think the fact that synthetic muscs will never work for me. It is obvious this was made expertly as this perfume never veers off into territory where muscs take over, even though the longevity is here – my blotter still smells amazingly strong after 3 days and it smells great.

I admit with shame now that when I first smelled this I have no  idea what it was I was smelling, I just loved it from the first spray. The best thing I can say for myself is I understood why they named it Poudree. 🙂 It took me a while to understand that rose was the one seducing me from the start, accompanied by her minions whom I ignored. It is only now that I smell the drydown again and again I can understand where vetiver comes into play (I would never have guessed it was there by myself) and I would swear there is some vanilla in the base as the warm, seductive sweetness it exudes cannot all be attributed to the mentioned notes.

I love the powdery feel of this perfume as it keeps the rose in check and I love that the creaminess you feel in this perfume is a sleight of hand done by jasmine. And even though I would say that vetiver adds its dryness and sweetness to the poudree part of the name and the perfume drydown, I still think a drop of vanilla helps. 😉

So, I hope now you are all as eager as I am to see Narciso Poudree released.

Please let me know what you think once you get the chance to smell it.

 

And I would like to say a big thank you to Ivo who shared this gem with me. 🙂

 

 

 

 

 

 

Aedes de Venustas – Palissandre d’Or

Like with all perfume releases, the story is full of dreamy and seductive phrases to make you fall in love with perfume even before you smell it.

Now that you know that, you don’t have to read it, smelling it will be enough for true love. 🙂

At least it was for me.palissandre-dor-web

It’s been so long since I smelled something new and fell in love with it instantly. So long that I started wondering if it was still possible. Turns out it is.

I won’t talk about the idea behind it or what it is supposed to evoke. I’ll just talk about what it evokes for me.

First of all – surprise.

It starts off with pink pepper, which I learned from the press materials I received, is the note introduced into perfumery by Alberto Morillas, the perfumer behind Palissandre d’Or (no wonder it works so great, he obviously knows how to use it).

So, how does it really smell? Hard to tell. 😉 The pink pepper dances around with the spices (cinnamon  and coriander) with kind of booze in their hands (nutmeg, ambroxan and copahu balm) while the warmth in the background smells of slightly burnt amber and smoke. All wearing classy clothes.

Notes: Ambrette, pink pepper, coriander, cinnamon, nutmeg, sandalwood, copahu balm, cedar trio (Chinese, Alaskan and Virginian), patchouli, ambroxan

If I were to sum it up in three words I’d say polished, elegant and seductive, especially if worn by a man. No wonder I like it so much, what with my leaning toward the masculine side (I so wish I could have said the “dark side” now). 😉

The longevity is great but the longer it works, the more masculine it smells. You lose the warmth and the light sweetness (not to mention the boozy side of it) and are left with an elegant trail of polished, slightly spicy creamy woodiness (mostly sandalwood).

 

 

P.S.  With this perfume I realized Aedes de Venustas is my new favorite house. I loved Iris Nazarena and I love this. I tried their Oillet Bengale the other day and I need to try it again as it showed promise.

Finally Puredistance M

I say finally because I’ve been in love with this perfume ever since I first smelled it. and I first smelled it when it came out. 🙂

The Puredistance people are a lovely bunch and I am always happy to receive their new releases – albeit this is far from a new release (it’s just that I am slow when it comes to writing).puredist m

Anyone who has smelled this will probably say it is hard to describe this perfume. I mean, you can actually smell all the notes but hell, that doesn’t come close to describing what it smells like in real life.

To my mind, it’s a perfume that share a genetic code with Shalimar. Where Shalimar is its female predecessor from a distant past, this is a perfume that has all the perfect bone structure of his famous ancestor, only it’s not a female descendant, it’s a really great looking male one. You see, it’s the bone structure he inherited, it didn’t come with the accumulated wealth and modern education. And he smells like all of it.

I can’t help it. In that first instant I smell Puredistance M, I smell the lemons and the underlying warmth of spices and vanilla and I instantly think, oh, Shalimar. That said, this doesn’t smell anything like Shalimar, it’s only the initial blast and just so you know, the lemony-spicy notes smell like candy a bit and give me the idea that our rich guy has a prankster side to him.

I can completely understand the smoky part of this picture

I can completely understand the smoky part of this picture

There is a slight sharpness to this initial blast and I blame it all on the rose (and when I say blame I actually mean thank).

This is just such a wonderfully full perfume that makes you want to burrow your nose into whatever part of the body it’s on and stay there. At least it does when it’s dabbed on.

Anyway, the leather makes its presence known quite quickly and it has that lovely irisy feel to it (that’s how I differentiate leather). Supple and smooth and oh so seductive. (honestly, men should not be aware this perfume exists)

The official notes are: Bergamot, Lemon, Rose, Jasmine, Cinnamon, Patchouli, Mosses, Cistus, Vetiver, Patchouli, Vanilla, Leather, Musk

What I smelled before I saw the notes is leather, spices, flowers, patchouli, woody notes, sandalwood (missed the mark with that one) and vanilla as that is what always comes with Shalimar associations. The thing is, I should have recognized cistus, I love that smell and once I saw the notes I could smell it (as well as vetiver – shame on me for missing that!).

If it hasn’t been obvious, I am a huge Puredistance fangirl. 🙂 And even though I love the their feminine perfumes, I have no problem wearing this. Well, that’s an understatement. I love wearing this.

The sunny side of life – Monegal’s Kiss My Name

I apologize for the disappearance. Life gets rather busy sometimes. And interesting. 🙂

That said, the weather here’s been interesting as well. After a summer that resembled more of an autumn, we were in for some warm sunny weather. So this time around I turned to some white flowers by Mr Monegal. Ever after hearing him speak several weeks ago, I’m more and more leaning toward acquiring several more of his perfumes (Cuirelle is always a huge hit whenever I wear it).
So, I’ve been wearing Kiss My Name rather often. It  makes me think of the sunshine and happiness all in one (hence the title). The brightness of neroli just adds to the experience of the sunshine. And then tempered with tuberose and jasmine… What’s not to give you an instant smile? 🙂
I’d say Mr Monegal has mastered the art of seduction through perfumes.
I am certainly succumbing to more and more of his wonderful creations.kiss my name

So now that it was sunny and warm, I was wearing Kiss My Name a lot, a Monegal version of white flowers..

Notes: tuberose, iris, egyptian jasmine, tunisian neroli and tolu balsam.

A very refreshing start with neroli, based on jasmine and tuberose and I’d swear some kind of fruit. My guess would be peach. and then tuberose slowly leaves its nice position to let neroli and jasmine take center stage, all the while lurking in the background.

I admit the iris is playing hide and seek with me (rather well as I haven’t found it yet) but the tolu balsam is what I’d say gives the wonderful longevity to this perfume and the warmth to the notes that can sometimes be shrill.

And that’s basically it. An overwhelming feeling of happiness and warmth due to white flowers.

It seems though the enjoyment of the warm and sunny is finished for this year. Tomorrow the cold weather begins…

 

P.S: I can’t help it, that makes me instantly think of “Winter is coming…” (Game of Thrones)  😉

Comfort zone – tuberose and vanilla

Or, to give it a name Watch by M. Micallef. Or, Time for Love.

Although it seems tuberose might be a figment of my imagination as it’s not listed in the notes but I see people on Fragrantica thought they smell it too. Ylang-ylang as well,  but I’d say what I think of as tuberose could also be jasmine + ylang-ylang (sometimes I mix the two). But ylang-ylang isn’t listed either. 🙂

I had more fun smelling this while not looking at the listed notes. 😀watch

I cannot say it’s a breathtakingly novel perfume. Or that it will be loved by the masses (although you never really know but as it came out in 2002. and costs and arm and a leg, that’s a safe bet). 😉

What I can say is that it offers me comfort all day long as when you have tuberose and vanilla in a perfume, you can be pretty sure the longevity will work in its favor. 🙂 I’m guessing amber and musk help too and luckily the musk used here is one I am fine with (I don’t think they used too much).

Unfortunately, I can’t say much about the fruit and the peony except the fruit obviously works well with the sweet notes, and peony works well with the white notes. I also can’t help but wonder if there is some opoponax in there as well, as it has that special smell I always associate with my childhood play-doh equivalent.

No wonder I find it a comforting perfume…

Top notes: jasmine, vanilla and mandarin.                                                                      Heart: fruit and Chinese peony                                                                                        Base: amber and musk.

 

P.S. I knew I’d forget something. 🙂 This lovely perfume came to my through Asali who knows my perfume tastes better than I do at times.

Bella Belissima: Vetiver Spice (and all things nice)

Or, spicing up your life with vetiver. 😉

That should be their motto. Because I am more than willing to spice up my life with this one.bella b

I can thank Tara for bringing this perfume to my attention. The most amazing people of this world are perfumistas, and Tara was so lovely and aware of my love of vetivers, sent a package with several vetiver perfumes I’ve never tried before. Vetiver Spice was a clear favorite.. So, not only are perfumistas amazingly generous and nice people, they are also the worst kind of enablers. 😉

Notes:aged Java vetiver, bittersweet absinthe and cypress, citrus notes and violet,  green cardamom and clove bud, guaiacwood, leather, cashmere musk and Haiti vanilla.

It opens with a blast of citrusy-gaiac vetiver with vetiver being in the background to these two. I must say, violets have passed me by completely. It’s rather spicy and green and smells energetic. Then the energy part slowly starts to dissipate and the more mellow notes appear.

The strange thing is, I smell many things but most of them don’t relate to what the notes list says.

The green, vetiver notes are so well combined with the spices (cardamom and clove) that you can’t really smell them out. I keep imagining I can smell traces of violet and leather in there if I really try. 🙂

The best thing happens once the drydown begins.  I’m guessing the cashmere musk does something magical with violet, vetiver and cardamom as it gets a botanically humid note that just smells perfect.

So, yes, I found another vetiver perfume to love. 🙂

The problem is, it’s probably going to be unrequited love as it’s not available here and I’m on a non-shopping spree (so even though  £82 for 100ml sounds relatively ok, still no go).

But if you get the chance, try it. 🙂

Iris Nobile by Acqua di Parma, or

How I thought I didn’t care about iris perfumes

A long time ago, when I was a fletchling perfumista, I thought iris perfumes just weren’t for me. I don’t remember what it was I tried first, but somewhere at the beginning a decant of Iris Nobile found its way to me and I still remember how I was a bit underwhelmed.

I wonder to this day what exactly was I thinking. 🙂

Except for the fact that I love it, I think of it as a warm, mellow floral. Irisy, but also lightly sharp, a bit green and so very, very lovely.irisn3

Right from the start I get that warm, soft floral feel of iris underscored with warm notes. I can say they are the warm base notes (vanilla) as the whole thing reminds me a bit of an irisy dessert.

My mind thinks I smell jasmine and gardenia in it (as well as something menthol-like which seems to be anise) but once you look at the notes, it seems my nose is mixing up orange blossom for jasmine (wouldn’t be the first time).

Notes: iris petals, star anise, mandarin, bergamot, cedar flower, orange blossom, iris roots, vanilla and amber crystals.

I also discovered a strange thing while looking for the notes. I saw the citruses listed as the top notes and kept wondering how in the world I missed them while smelling and wearing this?! I mean, even though you expect them most of the times, I still thought I wouldn’t just fail to register them.

So I sprayed the perfume on a strip. Imagine my surprise when they all appeared there?! And lasted. It seems my skin kills off (eats) the citrusy notes in this perfume. And in my opinion, it is for the best. I love the way it smells on me.

Unfortunately though, I loved it a bit too much so now I have none.

Which wouldn’t be so bad if my search for notes hadn’t revealed the fact that what I had was probably the edt and not the edp now being sold (no chypre, patchouli notes in mine).

Does anyone know if the edt version of Iris Nobile still exists? The site doesn’t say so…

Easing into spring with Impossible Iris by Ramon Monegal

We had a really strange winter this year (more like no winter at all) so it started feeling like spring in the middle of February. But the spring is basically here this week. even though it seemed to have been hesitating for a while.

Like me when it comes to perfume. I’m not really sure what to wear these days, something still for the cold days or something spring-like?

So, at the moment I’m exploring the flowers with some warm undertones. Which is how I came to try and like Impossible Iris with its fruity warmth and cool iris.

Notes: Italian Iris Concrete, Cassie d’Egypte Absolute, Raspberry, Comoran Ylang-Ylang, Egyptian Jasmine Absolute and Virginian Cedarwood.

I saw that many reviews center themselves around the raspberry note. It makes sense, as that fruitiness cannot be missed and lasts for quite a while. But for the life of me, when I first smelled it, I couldn’t come up with raspberry as the fruit I smelled. I thought it was more in line with forest berries with some orange (possibly peaches) thrown in. Turns out I was very wrong.impossile

The thing is, I have a hard time putting into words exactly what I smell.

I love the fact that it feels like a cousin of Cuirelle, due to a similar grey feel (I wonder if that’s cedarwood). I haven’t explored many of the Monegal perfumes so I can’t say if there is a signature to it.

For me, Impossible Iris starts with a light cleaner-like smell, slightly citrus-y with a hint of evergreen. Hmm, looking at my notes and the official notes, I wonder what in the world do I think I’m smelling?! 😉

Anyway, the fruitiness is there from the start basically and at some point it actually overpowers the flowers. But not for long. The perfume also veers on the edge of white muskiness (or whatever kind of musks is in everything these days) but I say veer, as the musk never bothers me like it usually does, instead it feels more like a facet of the iris than anything else.

The general feel of this perfume is like the raspberry iris is resting on a warm mattress of hidden white flowers. With some cedar chips thrown in to make it more elegant. With such a beautiful aura.

That is one thing I cannot help but think about when I think of this perfume – the beautiful warm iris-y aura you waft around yourself when you wear it. Definitely helped by the raspberry note. 🙂

My sample came courtesy of the Monegal company.

A forgotten gem – Chanel Coromandel

At least for me.

I bought the big bottle when I was in Paris for the first time, and since I was getting lost all the time, it took me a while to locate the Chanel boutique. Now the bottle has lingered several years in my closet until I got reminded of it through a perfumista friend a few days ago.

I still understand why I didn’t blink an eye buying that 200 ml for what was my most expensive perfume purchase up to then. Now I think about it, possibly ever.

Basically, what I think of it is that it smells like a dry, ambery pashmina bolstered by patchouli.

Now, if I concentrate, I can smell the citrusy peel note in the opening, the frankincense being hidden in profile-chanel-mademoiselle-privee-collection-_6there (that’s a good thing in my book) and the little sunshine hidden in the petals of jasmine and rose.

The longer you wear it, the more the resiny base comes through and the dryness becomes even more apparent. Incense is peeking out of its hidey-hole and the patchouli takes center stage but the resiny warmth never leaves.

And that’s it. It’s a perfect example of elegant simplicity while not being simple at all.

So, what are your forgotten gems?

 

And while on the subject of Coromandel, these days, I see Les Exclusifs everywhere. 😉

So if you haven’t already, go play the detective over at Denyse’s blog (one of those places).

 

P.S. While searching for pics, I noticed Chanel has a nail polish of the same name in red color. Is it me, or Coromandel just doesn’t smell even remotely?

 

Notes: citruses, neroli, bitter oranger, jasmine, rose, orris, patchouli, woody notes, amber, benzoin, and frankincense

The Rose of Morocco – Andy Tauer’s Phi Une Rose de Kandahar

Actually, it’s the rose of Afghanistan but I’m calling it the Rose of Morocco in my mind as it smells of dry and thorny rose, on the familiar Tauer base which always makes me think of L’Air du Desert Marocain (not that they smell similar).

But the idea of dryness and dust is there, accompanied by light acridness and the feeling of thorns being hidden so you better beware when approaching it.desert rose

HEAD NOTES: natural apricot extract,cinnamon,hints of bitter almond, bergamot essential oil.

HEART NOTES: rare rose essential oil with its unique scent of spices, plums and flower petals, rose absolute from Bulgaria, Bourbon geranium,dark tobacco fond, absolute of dried tobacco leaves.

BODY NOTES: patchouli, vetiver, vanilla and tonka, musk and amber gris.

I would say smelling the notes is not what is important here. Sure, I can smell the bergamot, spices and almonds in the opening together with a beautiful rose note. And then the warmth of the vanilla and tonka, together with a pinch of tobacco. Finishing off with a warm, dry base resting on incredible patchouli.

What I find incredible is that it actually smells and feels like a warm, dry, rough region where the most succulent rose comes from. Not that I would know what dry, rough lands smell like, whether in Afghanistan or Morocco, but in my mind, this is how.

And once the night falls down, the rose closes its petals and you are left with the warmth of dry lands, reminiscing what bounty there was to smell when the petals were open.

This rose has so easily captured my heart and climbed the list of my favorite rose perfumes.

My sample was provided through http://www.tauerperfumes.com/ and the notes were taken from there as well.

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