Sniffing Paris (sans Ines )

Perfume shopping December 30, 2011 Comments: 9

By Asali

While Ines is still very preoccupied with her thesis, I’ll sneak in my Paris part two.  

Experience had taught me that deciding one perfume-buy from home, might me a good idea, as to not get perfume- purchase – stress –syndrome, or serious snuffusion, if I wouldn’t be able to choose from the spoils once there.

 My trip to the Mothership (as baptized by Tara) at 68 Champs Elyssées, was therefore obligatory since my home choice was going to be bought here. It was Cuir Beluga, which stems from the Guerlain L’Art et la Matiere line, and is the fragrant equivalent of wrapping up in a decadent finely woven cashmere shawl. While at the store many other things had to be tested, and had I not been a bit stingy with my available skin space, I’d probably have poured Vol de Nuit Extrait all over myself, as it was, I put some on the right wrist, the right hand being most likely to waft the most fragrance.  Give me a moment to gush to myself… Anyway, apart from Vol de Nuit, I enjoyed sniffing the Les Voyages Olfactifs and had thought that the Christmassy Paris- New York would win me over, but in fact Paris- London was the one that really got me with its grassy and rhubarb notes and a soft woody, vetiver, vanilla dry down (full impressions read here ).
It is a great fragrance when spring lurks, and you try hastening its arrival with an uplifting and delightful perfume.  (I read in the tea leaves of my 5 o’clock cuppa a bottle in the future…) In the end, I was surprised when I reached out to try Le Cologne du Parfumeur, not expecting anything, and loved it from the first sniff.  My non-perfumista friend exclaimed “it radiates”, which is true, it does, a mellow wonderful shine. And even though I normally have problems with discreet transparent fragrances, this one has great longevity and projection for an EdC, and a comforting resinous dry down.

Some nose rest included amongst other things the incredibly beautiful Sante Chapelle.

I have found that of the department stores, I prefer Printemps for perfume shopping; the selection is huge, and the staff overall friendly and knowledgeable. I went there to see if I could get to test the new Lubin EdP version of Idole. I love the original Idole spice fest, and thought what I really wanted was a less fleeting more fixated Idole, but now I am not so sure, maybe the charm of Idole is partly in its volatility. It remains to be sniffed, my sample is still waiting to be tried, I did see that the EdP version has already received rave reviews  here  and here .

The stand which has the Nez a Nez and So Oud amongst others has to be singled out for it’s wonderful SAs. I have on both occasions been helped by a young man (that just made me sound ancient:-/) who, apart from being very pleasant, is also very knowledgeable and clearly loves perfume, and not just the ones from his own brands, the kind of person that makes you feel that you’re his new best friend. He has great ideas for trying new stuff, and so I got away with Marron Chic, which I had not given much thought when I first tried it some time ago, but which now seems like the Christmas/winter party scent. It’s sensuous yet discreet, and yummy without being overly gourmand, all in all just very festive. (It has been on a test drive to the opera with some success, I should add as an afterthought) Definitely my winter hit-hot fragrance.

(Seen at the local Super Market and I simply had to shared it, since a certain fragrance of the same name, now sadly DC, is among my most beloved)

At the Armani Prive stand I was surprised to see a new addition to the Arabian Night line; Cuir Noir.  I hadn’t heard of the release yet, so was of course very excited by this find. Especially since I do find some of these perfumes to be quite extraordinary, I love Bois D’Encens for example. It turned out it was an exclusive release for Printemps at this stage, which will reach broader release in the next month or so.
Unfortunately, there was only the back of my left hand free to spray and there were no samples available, however, what I sniffed I simply adored. Apparently the noir is as in vanilla pods and tobacco, from what I could smell from under the olfactory overload I had suffered; I should say that the cuir was more a soft suede leather as in Cuir Beluga, rather than the spiky Marlboro Man type. Apparently it contained oud too, but I am happy that this particular note really didn’t stick out much on my skin, but was seamlessly blended into the very cozy fragrance. I liked Cuir Noir very much, on the downside is the price of 250€ on the plus is that they will actually carry it at the department store here, so I shall be able to sniff it again as soon as it comes on general release.

I am nearly at the end with talking of my sniffing escapades, but I have still to mention Jovoy– I am very sad that I didn’t get to take Ines there, since this really is a most wonderful boutique, that comes with the highest recommendations possible. The staff as well as the owner are super friendly and welcoming, helpful if you need it, but also happy to let you just sniff on your own for ages, and their selection beautifully picked with a broad palette of classic and more contemporary as well as labels from several countries are at display.
Normally, they will do you samples of the fragrances you want to test, but they had just run out of vials when I visited, this did not lessen the joy of being there. Especially since the owner François Hénin ended up endowing my friend with Parfum D’Empire samples. Personally, I discovered a, to me unfamiliar line called Romea D’Ameor (the perfumer behind those is none other than Pierre Bourdon ) , got to sniff the 3 new HdP, learned that I really like the Rance and the Atelier Flou lines and I got to revisit old suspects like Amouage, MDCI and Vero Profumo. Also, I should give mention to their own range of Jovoy perfumes with several new additions amongst other a very special incense-fragrance in La Liturgie des Heures. But since I kept ah-ing at all the decidedly male fragrances I was aware my nose was probably no longer to be completely trusted, and since this was my last day in Paris I had to leave without buying. I do have a pretty good idea of what needs my further attention though, and they do ship too. If you are visiting Paris, Jovoy is a must, until then, their homepage is the place to go.

http://www.jovoyparis.com/

Thanks for reading  and au revoir !

What I expect in the year 2012.

I've been thinking December 28, 2011 Comments: 22

I don’t think I should name my post New Year’s resolutions even though they might appear as such.
I’m hoping they become a longer fixation in my life.
Of course, not as strictly inforced as what I’m planning for the next year but hopefully some of that strictness will remain forever.
Some thing are just general ideas I have about life I would like to keep living and possibly deepen.

1. I’m following Birgit’s path next year and I am not buying any bottles of perfume* (the most important word here being bottle – decants don’t count). I really need to start wearing and enjoying all the perfumes I have and actually talk about those and not be on a constant quest for new. I have more than enough to last me for ymore than a year if I were to talk about one each day (this includes samples of course!).

2. Which brings me to point number 2. I need to enjoy the things I already have. (this goes for both perfume and books)
I have so much of both that I haven’t given any attention to, and I believe it is causing some underlying stress that more accumulate and I haven’t even started with those I have.
In case of books, not buying doesn’t count for the series I’m following. Everything else will wait.

3. Point number 3 would be, I will try and enjoy the bounty of my life. As shown by previous too, I obviously don’t lack in life’s leisurely pursuits and honestly, this recession has demonstrated very clearly to me that I have more than enough and don’t lack for anything.
Yes, I’d love to be rich but if I weren’t happy as the person I am, money wouldn’t be able to change that (just make it more difficult for me to understand that happiness doesn’t come from it).

4. This brings me to number 4. I will seriously try to save a little bit of money. The key thing here is starting with little as I’m not prone to saving or sticking to any such plan (made by myself). I really need to learn to not spend all the money I earn. It’s starting to make me feel materialistic (which I know I am) but also, lacking in strength of character.
I really, really have enough of stuff in my life and don’t lack for anything. Now I need to start enjoying the things I have and taking good care that the new things that arrive are really those I need.

5. And speaking of character strength, I sincerely hope I’ll have enough to enroll in a 2-month program here that teaches people how to run effectively and prepares you for a half-marathon (I do think I’ll skip that part).

Running on a beach like this would never be a problem

But I would really love to do something for my body (and its health) and I always thought running was beyond me (I’m just not such a person).

So, I hope I’ll win against myself (and that will probably be a good opportunity to present myself with an iPod as I have nothing for music if I decide to do it).

Feel free to show your support in this because I am pretty sure I will be needing it. 🙂

6. I also hope I will write more (often). 🙂 I want to, I just need to work more on making my wishes into reality (especially those that are only dependent on me).

7. And last but not least, I hope I finish my thesis (unless it all comes down to nothing as the university is no longer inclined to extend the deadline for quite many of us left) but in any case, I hope it gets finished in any way, and then I hope I’ll have more time to spend with family and friends and finally restore the feeling I have all the time I need to enjoy the little things in life, instead of the opposite.

It all basically comes to the fact that I want to enjoy the life I have and not the one I need to pay for.

* I am pretty sure an exception or two to the rule of non-buying will appear but I can’t say in advance what they might be.

J.R.R. Tolkien: The Hobbit

World of Books December 27, 2011 Comments: 6

I’m already preparing myself for the movie to come out next year and even though I already read Hobbit 10-12 years ago, it was time to read it again.
I realized this after I started reading and noticed that the only things I remembered from the first time was that there were Bilbo and Gandalf, trolls, dwarves, Gollum and the ring and a dragon. I managed to forget every single detail.

Including that the tone of the story is much lighter than The Lord of the Rings and many times goes for funny. Also, the whole story is told from the narrator’s point of view, even when thoughts and speech are coming from the characters.

All together it’s a nice, light introduction into what is to come next. So much so that I kept wondering how in the world did the Hobbit author manage to evolve that world so much to come up with the rest later. Although it seems LotR was written at almost the same time (or very soon after).
This just proves I will need to read LotR again soon. 🙂

Anyway, The Hobbit is a fantasy story of a quest to which Bilbo only reluctantly agrees to (as their resident burglar) and the dwarves and Bilbo have all sorts of extraordinary adventures from which he returns changed (and richer).
We also learn of the goodness and resilience the hobbits display and it’s easy to agree with their matter-of-fact world view (at least I hope so, I don’t think some would be as generous of both spirit and material things as Bilbo is).

There is one thing about Hobbit though, although not as strongly presented, that is a continuing feature of all Tolkien work (I’ve read so far) – there is always a tragic part to the story.

Which makes me wonder what will they do about that in the movie…?

Merry Christmas!

Uncategorized December 25, 2011 Comments: 8

I wish everyone a merry Christmas, filled with happiness among family and friends (and nice gifts under the Christmas tree, possibly fragrant!)

O Tannenbaum! (part 2)

Joint blog project, Short perfume review December 21, 2011 Comments: 28
Welcome to my part of the O Tannebaum! blog project. 🙂
I’m running a bit late after my co-bloggers but that’s because I tried to put my thoughts on my 3 choices in order, only to discover I can’t.
I find all 3 beguiling, extremely interesting, strange and therefore meant for me. 🙂
In a random manner (not as to how much I like them) here they are.
Parfumerie Generale – Un Crime Exotique
My readers probably remember that I was on a hunt for a Christmas perfume. This one fits the bill only partly. The cinnamon and ginger are here, as is the black tea, but Christmas here doesn’t smell like this perfume.
But I surely wouldn’t mind spending it where it does smell like UCE. 🙂
With this perfume I keep going through what of the notes I can smell and then trying to guess how in the world do they combine into what I smell.
Notes: Chinese osmanthus, gingerbread, tea, cinnamon, star anise, mate absolute, vanilla sugar, South Sea Island sandalwood
It starts sweetly gingery-cinnamony (I don’t know how gingerbread smells like so gingery it is) and now that I know what to look for, I can smell the tea underneath (of the black variety). My notes made me look for a bit of raspberry-ish fruit but I guess the osmanthus-anise-tea combination could make me feel the fruity aspect in this.
I keep having problems describing this but I blame it all on the anise. It gets more barky-cinnamon and there is the underlying smell I cannot describe that I’m guessing is made refreshing by mate, anise, vanilla and sandalwood.
The good thing about this perfume is that it doesn’t lose the cinnamon tinge, even though it lessens, it is still there. And the wonder lasts.
La Via del Profumo – Oud Caravan no1.
I was lucky to win a sample of this from Suzanne and it came in time to be included in my O Tannenbaum choices.
If there are notes for this listed somewhere, someone please let me know as I had to smell this blindly (so all manner of strange associations might crop up). 🙂
First of all, I need to say it doesn’t smell as oudy as I keep thinking oud perfumes should (having the previous Montale experience). Then again, it does smell oudy, in that good, smoky, serious, lightly leathery and incensey way. The way that makes you a bit scared of the aura it is projecting.
At the same time, it makes you come closer to try and define what is it that makes it enticing.
As I don’t know the notes, it makes it easier for me to describe what I’m smelling without wondering why am I not smelling something (or smelling something that isn’t there). 🙂
Sometimes I smell it and think there is a light herbal tinge to it – the kind that makes your nose clear but in this case it’s not very apparent.
Anyway, a bit later, light balsamic feel emerges (as in the woody-resiny kind) giving this just a hint of sweetness so as to not make it too dry to smell. But it still smells dry with a light woody creaminess in the background. And all the time preciously oudy.
Burren Perfumery – Winter Woods
It seems Burren Perfumery is this very well hidden little perfumery in Ireland because so far I’ve never seen a single perfume review of any of their scents (including myself who is aware of their existence).
Winter Woods is their latest release and I was lucky to receive a sample when the release was announced (along with all other of their perfumes).
Notes: rosemary, bergamot, lemon, iris, lavender, cedar, pine and vetiver.
I see they are calling this a quietly masculine fragrance – I can’t really judge, I like it and I have a tendeny to fall into the “masculine” part of the perfume world.
It starts with a refreshingly bitter – powdery feel. Considering the fact that both bergamot and lemon are listed, it is remarkably subdued in the citrusy department. I mean you can smell the light citrusness, combined with a bitterness and what I tend to call shampoo freshness (which always reminds me of nettle but that’s not listed as a note).  Before I lose your interest, the clean freshness doesn’t last that long. I’m pretty sure iris is exorting its effect on this whole composition, making it bitter and powdery.
At the same time, the idea of winter woods is becoming more and more true. But these winter woods are covered in snow (the wihiteness of the perfume comes very clearly out) and you can smell the crisp air, the wood bark and the powdery feel of the snow.
I’m not one to fall for powdery (at least I never did before) but the bitterness and powderiness of this are getting under my skin.
(actually they already got there)
I could go into details of the notes but unless you really pay attention to what you’re smelling, they won’t reveal themselves (they will if you really want to know them).
But I find that I don’t want to deconstruct them – I want to walk in those woods.
Please visit other participating blogs for some more Tannenbaum perfumes. 🙂

Another Perfume Blog
Beauty, Bacon, Bunnies
Beauty on the Outside
EauMG
Eyeliner on a cat
Fragrant Reviews
Muse in Wooden Shoes
Olfactoria’s Travels
Parfumieren
Redolent of Spices
Scent of the Day
Suzanne’s Perfume Journal
The Candy Perfume Boy

O Tannenbaum! A joint blogging event

Joint blog project, Short perfume review December 21, 2011 Comments: 24

I adore participating in joint blogging projects so when Joanne and Krista asked if we were interested in this year’s Christmas project of course we said yes (that includes Asali and I).

So here are Asali’s mini reviews for O Tannenbaum! project:


Pick #1:

Iunx, L’Ether; Only recently I discovered this fragrance, and I can’t get it out of my mind, so it is definitely my Tannenbaum perfume no 1 – in spirit, even if not yet in material shape.

Because this incense perfume invites introspective thoughtfulness, and in the middle of this almost spiritual swirl of fragrance there is a discreet rose heart, and there is the golden hue of saffron softened by sandalwood. Even if this can be worn all year round, somehow it manages to sum up the soul of Christmas to me. A divine creation by Olivia Giacobetti

My pick #2;
Another Giacobetti gem is Safran Troublant (L’Artisan Parfumeur), ok so it isn’t exactly an imaginative choice, but it practically IS all that is nice about December to me.  It smells like the most delicious bun that the Swedes do for Lucia day called Lussekat. The fragrance like the bun manages to sparkle in all its glorious saffron spiciness, rounded and softened by vanilla sweetness.  It is alluring and smooth, and a most wonderful fragrance. Sharing many of the same notes including the creamy sandalwood, it couldn’t be further away from L’Ether in its expression. On the 13th of December you can experience a little scenery of girls dressed in white with a candle clad garland on their heads singing the Santa Lucia song, and you can eat Lussekatte (plural), and you can relive it every time you wear ST.

Pick #3

Last but not least the ultimative Christmas party fragrance: Marron Chic from Nez a Nez.

It’s less “Chestnuts roasting on an open fire” and more sleigh ride style “We’ll be singing the songs we like to sing without a single stop, at the fireplace while we watch the chestnut pop, just hear those sleigh bells jingling , ring ting tingling too, come on it’s lovely weather for a sleigh ride together with you ”

Comfy cosy and yet very sensual, it truly comes alive on the skin, oozing chic radiance, and like some of my most cherished perfumes turns you into something a little better than yourself.

Please visit other participating blogs to read more about what Christmas season perfumes bring happiness to them:

Another Perfume Blog
Beauty, Bacon, Bunnies
Beauty on the Outside
EauMG
Eyeliner on a cat
Fragrant Reviews
Muse in Wooden Shoes
Olfactoria’s Travels
Parfumieren
Redolent of Spices

Scent of the Day
Suzanne’s Perfume Journal
The Candy Perfume Boy
Undina’s Looking Glass


P.S. I’ll be posting my reviews later in the day.

Coming up!

Joint blog project December 20, 2011 Comments: 4

I don’t know if anyone noticed the lack of posts recently here (luckily, I can count on Asali to put in one or two to make it look like something is happening).

Well, at least tomorrow, I can happily announce there will be some perfume reviews (both by me and many other wonderful bloggers).

Sometimes I really need a shove at my back and everything returns to normal again (I hope tomorrow is that day). 🙂

So stay tuned and have fun tomorrow with us!

Paris part 1 – seen through green eyes

Perfume shopping December 16, 2011 Comments: 12

By Asali

I enjoyed Ines’ Paris diary post so much, I had second thoughts about writing anything myself, although I had already promised to do so. I am not a diary person, and find it much easier to concentrate on a single subject; however, I found that once I got started I had a lot to share, in fact so much so, this ended up in a two parter as well. J

Firstly: Ines is indeed every bit as red haired as you would imagine and every bit as lovely, and spotting a bright red winter coat, she lit up the Paris December landscape. Although I might have talked somewhat AT her at times, she did not seem to mind too much, our rather long e-mail correspondences prepared us, and meeting in person was just an extension of our cyber friendship.

My trip with Ines started out at L’Artisan Parfumeur, where we headed straight for the exclusive Mon Numero collection.  I really liked Mon Numero 10, which is basically a very wearable, soft incense fragrance, and I could imagine it would get at lot of wear if I owned it, but all in all, from this line it is still a bottle of Olivia Giacobetti’s Safran Troublant which has my number – in the future at least.

From there on we decided to go to Sens Unique in the Marais. I discovered to my great pleasure and surprise, Sens Unique is situated right opposite my Paris hairdresser in this hip part of town, so I actually had a pre-sniff in there the day before meeting up with Ines. At this first visit I (re-)discovered the perfume line Evody which does hold quite a few gems.  I tested the gorgeous Bois Secret which is just that; lovely secretive wood. As Ines mentioned I also came very close to getting myself a PROPER green fragrance, Parfumerie Generale’s Papyrus de Ciane.  It was definitely green, and yet it had enough vetiver, incense and spice for me to feel on safe and friendly ground. The only reason that it didn’t get to come straight home with me was, that it didn’t feel at all wintery to me, and considering I might have another 4 months of winter to come, I would rather wait a little. Buying a perfume, and then not to wear it for several months, just doesn’t seem quite right. Am I alone feeling that way? Une Crime Exotique was beautiful and very Chrismassy, and I can absolutely see why Ines went home with a bottle. And another vote goes to the lovely Svetlana, who was a wonderful host, and let us sniff to our hearts contend. Our time in the small but very well stocked perfume boutique flew by so fast, that I was very happy that we already had an appointment for the next day meeting up with Denyse to go to Palais Royal. 

What can I say, Palais Royale is wonderful, and I could go home with half the shop, but at this moment I restrained myself.  Denyse next took us to Costes, which are the single distributor of Iunx, Olivia Giacobetti’s brand. At Iunx I fell for the stunning creation L’Ether. Here again it was an resiny Incense scent, one in true Giacobetti style swirling and radiating above and around you, playing hard to get. It is truly ethereal, and a perfume I keep going back to in my mind, thinking this will too find its way into my perfume cupboard.

Denyse I found to be a truly vibrant, passionate and warm woman, and she shared generously of her vast knowledge and time. Spending time with her and Ines was a great pleasure, and I felt grateful yet again over the joys and friendships that this scented community has brought me. 

While we had spent all this lovely time together on a scented tour of Paris, it had gone dark around us, and after having left Denyse at Rue Rivoli, Ines and I walked through the Tuileries Gardens and said our goodbyes by the Pont Royal.  A very worthy place to do so, I find.

Mona di Orio – RIP

Uncategorized December 10, 2011 Comments: 5

It’s been a whole day and I’m still having a hard time believing the fact that the beautiful and talented Mona di Orio will never again present us all perfume aficionados with another wonderfully brilliant creation.

After finally “getting” her first collection, this year’s Les Nombres d’Or made me realize that Mona was on top of the list of the perfumers I loved the most for the creations they brought forth.

Everybody is saying it, and I can only repeat it as it’s on my mind as well – she will be remembered through her perfumes we wear and are going to wear into the future.

Lovely Mona, rest in peace.

Having fun in Paris II

Perfume shopping December 8, 2011 Comments: 17

I don’t know if I mentioned this before, but upon hearing I’m going alone to Paris, my mother said she’d like to come as well (she was never there).

I am so glad she decided to come, even though the 3 days aren’t even close enough for someone who is there for the first time to see anything. But she had fun.

So, I spent the Saturday morning walking around (and getting a bit lost) with my mother, then headed to meet with Asali at 3, before we went together to meet Denyse for coffee.
We were meeting at a bistro at Palais Royale, the most easiest to find if you remember correctly the instructions from the email (which I didn’t). But we found it (and a nice French guy even googled the location to help us). 🙂

And let me tell you, time spent with Denyse flies by. She wasn’t as I imagined her from her blog writings, she is very gregarious, smiling, vivacious and interesting to talk to (or just listen to). I feel Asali and I were lucky as she brought with herself, two of the creations she tried at the IFF Speed-smelling lunch she talked about on her blog.
I was much more impressed with Citizen K than with Yamazaki Idylle, which I wouldn’t mind drinking but well, the Idylle from the name is one of the Guerlains I’m not in love with. Citizen K on the other hand, I seriously hope will become widely available (if we’re lucky).

After coffee, of course we proceeded to Serge Lutens.
I was there only once 3 years ago and I was the only one there. This time around, there were a lot of people inside and people kept coming and going. It was a bit crowded.

I wasn’t interested in buying a bottle (except the Christmas present for my boyfriend) because as my company is located in Slovenia (the EU), SLs are always available for ordering.

I smelled many, learned I really like El Attarine and was careful not to get too close to Un Bois Vanille so it wouldn’t follow me home. 🙂

Denyse suggested one more stop after Serge Lutens, so she took us to the Iunx shop. She and Asali kept talking about the name and I kept thinking, how come I’ve never heard of this line before?!
Well, that happens when all you ever do with names is read them somewhere and don’t pronounce them. 🙂
Once we were in front of the shop and I saw the name in writing, everything fell into place.
(from now on, I’m pronouncing brand names loudly – except possibly for Xerjoff)

The shop only carries two lines – Iunx and Costes.

The Iunx perfumes are located in these strange tubes which release scent when you put your nose close to them. It’s actually a great way for getting a good smell. Too great as I learned I really enjoy the tubes containing Eau Frappee, Eau Baptiste and Splash Forte.
The very good-looking girl SA told me that my choices range all over (which they do) but each of them is unique and interesting and now I need to get myself samples so I can get to know them better.

In the end I walked out with Costes 1. 🙂 The winner of the day (and quite economical when compared to other perfumes I liked that weekend).

We said our good-byes to denyse and hopefully, there will be another chance in the future to visit perfume shops in Paris with her explaining all the details and background.