I am really glad I decided to participate in Undina’s Month of Irises. First, I really needed a kick-start to begin writing about perfumes again, and secondly, I seem to have a hidden love of iris. 🙂
When I started thinking about what iris perfumes I have that I could write about, only Hiris came to mind. And then I rummaged a bit through my collection and in no time, 6 of them came to light.
I really enjoyed smelling them again, having forgotten I actually had some of them. It’s funny, if anyone had asked if I enjoyed iris perfumes, I would say not so much but it turns out, I actually love them and enjoy wearing them.
Washington Tremlett: Iris Absolute
This one smells old-fashioned, quite aldehydic and buttery underneath. This is one very proper iris. 😉 With time the musk comes to bring the white flowers in this perfume to more prominence. As I’m usually not a fan of white musk, I must admit here it performs its job perfectly. As do the vanilla and tonka bean, making for a quite sweet drydown.
Notes: iris, Bulgarian Rose, jasmine, absolute of iris, heliotrope, lilies of the valley.
white musk, vanilla and Tonka Bean.
Aedes de Venustas: Iris Nazarena
It has a very earthy, carroty fruity opening, and all I can think is ‘god I love that perfume’. Then I read the brief and it made sense, loving it the way I do, with that special iris: “rare Iris Bismarckiana is also known as Iris Nazarena because it grows mainly in the mountains east of Nazareth”. I’m not sure how special this iris smells, but I’m fine with giving it special properties.
This is the most earthy of the bunch. At some point it gets a rosy, spicy feel due to the base notes. The longer you wait, the more the spiciness starts to come out.
Notes: iris and incense accord, ambrette, rose, juniper berry, star anise, patchouli, vetiver, incense, clove and oud.
Hermes: Hiris
Smelling Hiris after Iris Nazarena gives me no carrot hints even though that note gets mentioned often in this perfume. It actually smells more grassy and dewy, very springlike and maiden-like, unblemished. It’s the happiest of iris perfumes in this post. It’s the type of perfume that makes you relax and smile. Soft like summer rain but fresh like spring dew. The best I can come up with in the end is that it exudes softness.
L’Artisan Parfumeur: Numero 8
Now this is one I struggled with, it’s the most austere of them and at the same time teeming with strength and nuance. No sweetness in the beginning, it smells calm, cool and poised. And when the initial cool dissipates, you can feel a smile forming on your lips because the cool facade gives way to a heart that sings of spring. It just starts smelling so buttery soft and pleasant. It smells like flowers are starting to come out of it making it feel more approachable.
Notes: Coriander, apricot, carrott, violet flower, jasmine, narcisse, rose, mimosa, iris, vanilla, white musk
Van Cleef and Arpels: Bois d’Iris
Bois d’Iris smells quite unlike the other irises. All afore-mentioned perfumes have this recognizable iris opening note, you cannot miss it. This one smells more green and vetivery, more than it smells like an iris perfume.
Notes: Iris, exotic wood, and ambergris
Now that I took a look at the notes I have a better understanding of what I smell. The ambergris in this is very reminiscent of the Amber Gris by Balmain. The common thing is this slightly metallic tinge of the ambergris. With time the amber and woody notes start taking over and it gets more woodsier and amber loses the metallic tinge. The funny thing is that by the time it dries down, no iris remains, but I don’t mind – amber can never go wrong with me.
Which brings me to the first iris perfume I fell in love with.
Prada: Infusion d’Iris
It makes me smile smelling this and thinking of how much I loved it. Compared to the rest of iris perfumes in this post, this one comes a bit short. I still love its citrusy opening, and the fact that it’s the most bitter iris of them all. I also love the fact that it contains vetiver and that I can smell it and enjoy it (that is still one of my favorite notes). This one is the most obviously a summer perfume. The rest are seasonless, for the lack of a better word, but this one would go best for summer.
Notes: Mandarin, Orange blossom, Iris, Vetiver, Frankincense, Benzoin, Galbanum, Cedarwood
I realized writing this and smelling all these iris perfumes that the iris note makes perfumes containing it very elegant and distinguished. Smelling of irises makes you instantly feel more classy. Just in case you needed something to make you feel like that. 😉
The good thing is it is often paired with frankcincense and green notes. Green notes are never amiss in my case, but the fact that I don’t mind (or smell) the incense is quite astonishing.
Iris truly is an amazing note.
Tagged: Aedes de Venustas, Bois d'Iris, Hermes, Hiris, Infusion d'Iris, iris, Iris Absolute, Iris Nazarena, L'Artisan Parfumeur, Month of irises, Numero 8, Perfume review, Prada, Van Cleef and Arpels, Washington Tremlett
All I am - a redhead 
Hi Ines! Thanks for hosting one of the days in the Month of Irises 🙂
Out of the irises that you have I also have a bottle of VC&A Bois d’Iris and a travel spray of Aedes Iris Nazarena. I love iris perfumes so much. I was not familiar with Washington Tremlett one.
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Hi Lucas! Glad to hear you love irises, I only realized this myself yesterday. 🙂
I would offer to send you what little I have of Washington Tremlett iris, but Croatian post no longer allows for sending of alcohol liquids. 😦
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Don’t worry. I will find a way to try it eventually
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[…] flower of Croatia – a home country of Ines (All I am – a redhead), who is hosting today’s SOTD thread. Visit her blog to read her thoughts on several iris perfumes and share what perfume you’re […]
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I really enjoyed this post, even though my liking for iris perfumes seems to be in abeyance. I loved the idea of an Iris called Bismarckiana! You reminded me of Numéro 8 too, which I know I really rated when my iris relationship was at its peak. I agree that the note smells elegant and classy, and am starting to conclude that I must not want to smell like that. 😉
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Hehehehe, you made me laugh. 😀 What do you want to smell like? 😉
The thing is, I never actually think I want to smell elegant but I think I’ll be picking my irises more regularly now, especially with spring just around the corner. I’m in the mood now.
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Great post, Ines and I love that you found you loved iris more than you thought you did.
Did you send me a sample of Washington Tremlett? Undina and I were saying we’d never heard of it and here you are with a mini review. It’s just as you say. I thought Undina might like it because of the white flower undertones.
I wish I’d tried Numero 8 now. I don’t know if this collection is still available.
I can imagine Iris Nazarema really suiting you. I think it’s because of the subtle incense accord.
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Thank you Tara. 🙂
I don’t think I sent any WT Iris, not that I remember. And while looking for notes of Numero 8, it does seem that one is no longer available. But if there is a way for us to meet this year, I’ll bring both along. They are only decants so will be easy to bring them.
I’m quite upset that I can no longer send perfumes from Croatia – what a stupid thing to regulate. Otherwise I’d just send them your way.
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Thank you for joining us and hosting the iris day! I really like when people participate in join projects: I think it’s a lot of fun.
I’m wearing Van Cleef and Arpels Bois d’Iris (from Lucas’s bottle 🙂 ). On my skin it’s mostly woody (and less amber-y), and a month ago I would have told you that I do not smell iris at all. But after 15 days of different irises, I know exactly which part of what I smell is probably iris 🙂 I like this perfume, and I could gladly wear it if I had it but it is a little bit more masculine than I’d like my perfumes to be so probably I won’t go beyond the sample that Lucas generously shared with me.
Infusion d’Iris (EDT and Absolue) and Hiris are my favorites as well. And I need to re-visit Iris Nazarena since everybody likes it.
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Sorry for the late reply. I think I replied in my mind and left it at that. I agree that Bois d’Iris is more masculine than the rest (at least of those I tried) but that is always a plus for me. 😊
I wonder what you will think of Iris Nazarena after you re-visit it. Some people don’t care for that kind of iris.
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You have a nice grouping of irises! I have never heard of the Washington Tremlett and will seek it out. I have not explored the L’AP Irises and will start with Numero 8.
Your mention of postal regulations reminded me of last weekend when I prepared packages for mailing for the first time this year. Before I was able to get to the shipping label section of PayPal, I had to agree to abide by ALL the rules and regulations of the US Postal Service manual. Yep, ahmmm, I read it in its entirety…
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😁😁 You did? Read it in its entirety I mean. 😉
It seems that the Washington Tremlett Iris (line in general perhaps) has fallen into disregard with the perfume community, haven’t seen them mentioned in a while. And I also love their Clove Absolue which I no longer have any of.
Hope you get your hands on Numero 8, it seems to be discontinued.
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